四月的北海道｜櫻花與雪景的九天八夜全攻略
Hokkaido in April｜9-Day Itinerary & Travel Guide for Sakura and Snow
Azuki / 2023.04
疫情後的第一個春天，
我們去了北海道。
我們去了北海道。
疫情後的第一個春天，我決定把久違的第一次出國獻給北海道。機票出乎意料地便宜，只要約 NT$11,000，就開啟了這趟旅程。
今年冬天特別長，我很幸運地遇到道南的櫻花初始季節，與道東的雪季尾聲。一趟旅行裡，同時感受雪與櫻花交錯的浪漫，也讓這趟八天七夜的北海道之行更顯特別。
其實選擇北海道，背後還有一點小私心。疫情期間看了 Netflix 日劇《First Love》，滿島光與佐藤健的演出，加上宇多田光的音樂與北海道的雪景，讓我一直心癢。那時就在想：「如果有一天可以再出國，我要去北海道看雪。」於是，這趟旅程就這樣定下了。
今年冬天特別長，我很幸運地遇到道南的櫻花初始季節，與道東的雪季尾聲。一趟旅行裡，同時感受雪與櫻花交錯的浪漫，也讓這趟八天七夜的北海道之行更顯特別。
其實選擇北海道，背後還有一點小私心。疫情期間看了 Netflix 日劇《First Love》，滿島光與佐藤健的演出，加上宇多田光的音樂與北海道的雪景，讓我一直心癢。那時就在想：「如果有一天可以再出國，我要去北海道看雪。」於是，這趟旅程就這樣定下了。
The first spring after the pandemic, and I gave my first trip abroad to Hokkaido. Flights were cheaper than expected, around NT$11,000, which made the decision easy.
This particular winter had stretched on longer than usual, which turned out to be good timing. Southern Hokkaido was just entering cherry blossom season, while eastern Hokkaido still had snow. Two seasons in one trip, and that overlap made everything feel a little more special.
There was a personal reason behind choosing Hokkaido too. During the pandemic, I watched First Love on Netflix. Mitsuishi, Sato Takeru, Utada Hikaru's music, and all that snow. Something about it stayed with me. I remember thinking: whenever I get to travel again, I want to go to Hokkaido and see that snow in person. So that's what we did.
This particular winter had stretched on longer than usual, which turned out to be good timing. Southern Hokkaido was just entering cherry blossom season, while eastern Hokkaido still had snow. Two seasons in one trip, and that overlap made everything feel a little more special.
There was a personal reason behind choosing Hokkaido too. During the pandemic, I watched First Love on Netflix. Mitsuishi, Sato Takeru, Utada Hikaru's music, and all that snow. Something about it stayed with me. I remember thinking: whenever I get to travel again, I want to go to Hokkaido and see that snow in person. So that's what we did.
Hokkaido at a Glance
北海道的特色印象
氣候
四季分明，4 月同時能遇見櫻花與殘雪。
四季分明，4 月同時能遇見櫻花與殘雪。
Climate
four distinct seasons, and in April you get both cherry blossoms and lingering snow in the same trip.
four distinct seasons, and in April you get both cherry blossoms and lingering snow in the same trip.
飲食文化
湯咖哩、壽司、海鮮丼、大閘蟹都是必吃。
湯咖哩、壽司、海鮮丼、大閘蟹都是必吃。
Food
soup curry, sushi, seafood bowls, and hairy crab are all worth going out of your way for.
soup curry, sushi, seafood bowls, and hairy crab are all worth going out of your way for.
生活與環境
・友善程度：★★★★★
・乾淨整潔：★★★★★
・便利商店密度極高（Lawson、Seicomart、7-11）。
・友善程度：★★★★★
・乾淨整潔：★★★★★
・便利商店密度極高（Lawson、Seicomart、7-11）。
Daily life
・Friendliness: ★★★★★
・Cleanliness: ★★★★★
・Convenience stores everywhere: Lawson, Seicomart, and 7-Eleven are never far away.
・Friendliness: ★★★★★
・Cleanliness: ★★★★★
・Convenience stores everywhere: Lawson, Seicomart, and 7-Eleven are never far away.
消費
・住宿：NT$500–700/晚（一般商務旅館或民宿）
・每日餐飲：約 ¥2,500–4,000
・交通：JR、巴士、自駕都很方便
・住宿：NT$500–700/晚（一般商務旅館或民宿）
・每日餐飲：約 ¥2,500–4,000
・交通：JR、巴士、自駕都很方便
Cost
・Accommodation: NT$500 to NT$700 per night for a standard business hotel or guesthouse
・Daily food budget: around ¥2,500 to ¥4,000
・Getting around: JR, bus, and self-drive are all practical options depending on your itinerary
・Accommodation: NT$500 to NT$700 per night for a standard business hotel or guesthouse
・Daily food budget: around ¥2,500 to ¥4,000
・Getting around: JR, bus, and self-drive are all practical options depending on your itinerary
建築與文化
・市容：紅磚建築 + 現代化，像小樽的復古煤氣燈與石板路。
・在新千歲機場偶爾能看到俄文標示，反映地理位置與歷史。
・市容：紅磚建築 + 現代化，像小樽的復古煤氣燈與石板路。
・在新千歲機場偶爾能看到俄文標示，反映地理位置與歷史。
Architecture and culture
・red brick buildings alongside modern city blocks, like Otaru's vintage gas lamps and cobblestone streets.
・At New Chitose Airport, you'll occasionally spot Russian signage, a quiet reminder of where Hokkaido sits on the map and what that history means.
・red brick buildings alongside modern city blocks, like Otaru's vintage gas lamps and cobblestone streets.
・At New Chitose Airport, you'll occasionally spot Russian signage, a quiet reminder of where Hokkaido sits on the map and what that history means.
9-Day Itinerary Overview
九天八夜行程總覽
這趟旅程走訪了札幌、美瑛、阿寒湖、根室、登別、函館、洞爺湖與小樽。以下是簡要行程，每天的詳細故事與攻略會分篇分享。
This trip covered Sapporo, Biei, Lake Akan, Nemuro, Noboribetsu, Hakodate, Lake Toya, and Otaru. Here's the quick version. Each day has its own full post with the stories and details.
Day1 札幌
・抵達新千歲機場 → 札幌車站
・奧芝商店湯咖哩
・時計台、北海道神宮（櫻花）、電視塔
・晚餐：燒肉
・抵達新千歲機場 → 札幌車站
・奧芝商店湯咖哩
・時計台、北海道神宮（櫻花）、電視塔
・晚餐：燒肉
Day 1 Sapporo
・Arrived at New Chitose Airport, headed into the city.
・Lunch at Okushiba-shoten for soup curry.
・Walked to the Clock Tower, Hokkaido Shrine (cherry blossoms), and the TV Tower.
・Yakiniku for dinner.
・Arrived at New Chitose Airport, headed into the city.
・Lunch at Okushiba-shoten for soup curry.
・Walked to the Clock Tower, Hokkaido Shrine (cherry blossoms), and the TV Tower.
・Yakiniku for dinner.
Day2 美瑛
・原本想去二條市場，但睡過頭
・租車自駕 → 白鬚瀑布、青池
・美瑛神社（短暫停留）、沿途自駕經驗
・晚餐：旭川居酒屋、雪中散步
・原本想去二條市場，但睡過頭
・租車自駕 → 白鬚瀑布、青池
・美瑛神社（短暫停留）、沿途自駕經驗
・晚餐：旭川居酒屋、雪中散步
Day 2 Biei
・Slept through the plan to visit Nijo Market.
・Picked up the rental car and started the self-drive leg.
・Shirahige Falls, Aoike, a brief stop at Biei Shrine.
・Dinner at an izakaya in Asahikawa, followed by a walk in the snow.
・Slept through the plan to visit Nijo Market.
・Picked up the rental car and started the self-drive leg.
・Shirahige Falls, Aoike, a brief stop at Biei Shrine.
・Dinner at an izakaya in Asahikawa, followed by a walk in the snow.
Day3 阿寒湖
・北狐牧場（被狐狸咬褲子事件）
・阿寒湖雪景、木雕街散步
・弟子屈住宿 → 晚餐：弟子屈拉麵、超市採購
・民宿澡堂體驗
・北狐牧場（被狐狸咬褲子事件）
・阿寒湖雪景、木雕街散步
・弟子屈住宿 → 晚餐：弟子屈拉麵、超市採購
・民宿澡堂體驗
Day 3 Lake Akan
・Kitakitsune Fox Park (the trouser incident).
・Lake Akan in the snow, wood carving street wander.
・Checked into a guesthouse in Teshikaga. Dinner: Teshikaga ramen and a supermarket run.
・Communal bath to close the night.
・Kitakitsune Fox Park (the trouser incident).
・Lake Akan in the snow, wood carving street wander.
・Checked into a guesthouse in Teshikaga. Dinner: Teshikaga ramen and a supermarket run.
・Communal bath to close the night.
Day4 根室
・金刀比羅神社（秋刀魚御守）
・日本最東端・納沙布岬、極東證明
・根室市區（原本想吃花丸，遇公休）
・魚市場採買 & Moo市場 → 秋刀魚壽司
・幣舞橋夕陽
・晚上抵達釧路住宿
・金刀比羅神社（秋刀魚御守）
・日本最東端・納沙布岬、極東證明
・根室市區（原本想吃花丸，遇公休）
・魚市場採買 & Moo市場 → 秋刀魚壽司
・幣舞橋夕陽
・晚上抵達釧路住宿
Day 4 Nemuro
・Kotohira Shrine and the saury omamori.
・Cape Nosappu, Japan's easternmost point, and the Extreme East Certificate.
・Tried to eat at Hanamaru, found it closed.
・Kushiro fish market and Moo Market for saury sushi.
・Sunset at Nusamai Bridge.
・Kotohira Shrine and the saury omamori.
・Cape Nosappu, Japan's easternmost point, and the Extreme East Certificate.
・Tried to eat at Hanamaru, found it closed.
・Kushiro fish market and Moo Market for saury sushi.
・Sunset at Nusamai Bridge.
Day5 登別
・長途移動（釧路 → 南千歲 → 登別）
・午餐：蕎麥麵、天婦羅丼
・登別地獄谷、大湯沼（遇到野鹿）
・蜂蜜冰淇淋、中文推銷小插曲
・晚餐：飯店懷石料理、十勝牛套餐
・第一瀧本館十種溫泉大澡堂
・長途移動（釧路 → 南千歲 → 登別）
・午餐：蕎麥麵、天婦羅丼
・登別地獄谷、大湯沼（遇到野鹿）
・蜂蜜冰淇淋、中文推銷小插曲
・晚餐：飯店懷石料理、十勝牛套餐
・第一瀧本館十種溫泉大澡堂
Day 5 Noboribetsu
・Long travel day from Kushiro to Noboribetsu via Minami-Chitose.
・Soba and tempura don for lunch.
・Jigokudani and Oyunuma, wild deer on the trail.
・Honey soft serve and a surprise Mandarin-speaking shop assistant.
・Kaiseki dinner and Tokachi beef.
・Ten-spring onsen at Daiichi Takimotokan.
・Long travel day from Kushiro to Noboribetsu via Minami-Chitose.
・Soba and tempura don for lunch.
・Jigokudani and Oyunuma, wild deer on the trail.
・Honey soft serve and a surprise Mandarin-speaking shop assistant.
・Kaiseki dinner and Tokachi beef.
・Ten-spring onsen at Daiichi Takimotokan.
Day6 函館
・大沼國定公園（活裂燒烏賊、哈密瓜牛奶冰淇淋、山川牛乳）
・午餐：幸運小丑漢堡（轉蛋＋大份餐）
・五稜郭塔 & 五稜郭公園櫻花
・傍晚：函館山夜景（烏雲擋景版） ・晚餐：再訪幸運小丑漢堡＋根室花丸壽司
・大沼國定公園（活裂燒烏賊、哈密瓜牛奶冰淇淋、山川牛乳）
・午餐：幸運小丑漢堡（轉蛋＋大份餐）
・五稜郭塔 & 五稜郭公園櫻花
・傍晚：函館山夜景（烏雲擋景版） ・晚餐：再訪幸運小丑漢堡＋根室花丸壽司
Day 6 Hakodate
・Onuma Park: grilled squid, melon soft serve, glass bottle Yamakawa milk.
・Lunch at Lucky Pierrot. Goryokaku Tower and full-bloom cherry blossoms.
・Mt. Hakodate night view, cloud edition.
・Second Lucky Pierrot visit and Nemuro Hanamaru for a late dinner.
・Onuma Park: grilled squid, melon soft serve, glass bottle Yamakawa milk.
・Lunch at Lucky Pierrot. Goryokaku Tower and full-bloom cherry blossoms.
・Mt. Hakodate night view, cloud edition.
・Second Lucky Pierrot visit and Nemuro Hanamaru for a late dinner.
Day7 洞爺湖
・移動到洞爺湖
・午餐：家庭式咖哩飯（親切老闆娘）
・洞爺湖遊船（韓國阿嬤 vs 海鷗）
・湖邊神社足湯
・傍晚返回札幌 → 晚餐：河豚六吃
・夜逛薄野、錯過電車 → 步行 20 分鐘回住宿
・移動到洞爺湖
・午餐：家庭式咖哩飯（親切老闆娘）
・洞爺湖遊船（韓國阿嬤 vs 海鷗）
・湖邊神社足湯
・傍晚返回札幌 → 晚餐：河豚六吃
・夜逛薄野、錯過電車 → 步行 20 分鐘回住宿
Day 7 Lake Toya
・Drive to Lake Toya.
・Lunch at a family-run curry restaurant.
・Boat ride on the lake (Korean grandmothers vs. seagulls).
・Lakeside shrine foot bath.
・Back to Sapporo for a six-course fugu dinner.
・Wandered Susukino, missed the last tram, walked back.
・Drive to Lake Toya.
・Lunch at a family-run curry restaurant.
・Boat ride on the lake (Korean grandmothers vs. seagulls).
・Lakeside shrine foot bath.
・Back to Sapporo for a six-course fugu dinner.
・Wandered Susukino, missed the last tram, walked back.
Day 8 小樽
・JR 移動至小樽
・三角市場海鮮丼（海膽、鮭魚子、螃蟹）
・小樽運河 & 水天宮眺望市景
・LeTAO 草莓聖代、舒芙蕾、八層冰淇淋
・晚上返回札幌 → Uniqlo、大國藥妝大採購、超市半價大戰
・JR 移動至小樽
・三角市場海鮮丼（海膽、鮭魚子、螃蟹）
・小樽運河 & 水天宮眺望市景
・LeTAO 草莓聖代、舒芙蕾、八層冰淇淋
・晚上返回札幌 → Uniqlo、大國藥妝大採購、超市半價大戰
Day 8 Otaru
・JR to Otaru.
・Sankaku Market seafood bowl with sea urchin, salmon roe, and crab.
・Otaru Canal and Suitengu Shrine for city views.
・LeTAO strawberry parfait, soufflé, and eight-layer soft serve.
・Back to Sapporo for Uniqlo, Daikoku Drugstore, and the supermarket discount hour.
・JR to Otaru.
・Sankaku Market seafood bowl with sea urchin, salmon roe, and crab.
・Otaru Canal and Suitengu Shrine for city views.
・LeTAO strawberry parfait, soufflé, and eight-layer soft serve.
・Back to Sapporo for Uniqlo, Daikoku Drugstore, and the supermarket discount hour.
Day 9 札幌 → 台灣
・薄野購物（Uniqlo、真皮包包折扣）
・機場豬肉丼午餐
・機場伴手禮（十勝優格、咖啡牛奶）
・搭酷航返台 → 抵達台中
・薄野購物（Uniqlo、真皮包包折扣）
・機場豬肉丼午餐
・機場伴手禮（十勝優格、咖啡牛奶）
・搭酷航返台 → 抵達台中
Day 9 Sapporo to Taiwan
・Last shopping run in Susukino (Uniqlo and a leather goods clearance sale).
・Pork rice bowl at the airport.
・Tokachi yogurt and coffee milk for the road.
・Scoot flight home, arrived in Taichung.
・Last shopping run in Susukino (Uniqlo and a leather goods clearance sale).
・Pork rice bowl at the airport.
・Tokachi yogurt and coffee milk for the road.
・Scoot flight home, arrived in Taichung.
Reflection
Azuki旅行結語
四月的北海道，沒有夏季的人潮與冬季的寒冷，卻有最特別的「雙重風景」：雪與櫻花並存。這是一段從日劇夢想到真實旅程的體驗，不只是景點，更像是一段「找回旅行感」的過程。
April in Hokkaido sits between seasons, past the winter crowds and before the summer rush, with snow and cherry blossoms existing at the same time. This trip started as a dream from a Japanese drama and turned into something that felt like rediscovering what travel is actually for.
QA time
QA時間
你會更想體驗哪一種北海道？
A.還留著雪的道東
B.櫻花初綻的道南
A.還留著雪的道東
B.櫻花初綻的道南
Which version of Hokkaido would you rather experience?
A. Eastern Hokkaido, still covered in snow.
B. Southern Hokkaido, just as the cherry blossoms open.
A. Eastern Hokkaido, still covered in snow.
B. Southern Hokkaido, just as the cherry blossoms open.