北海道旭川・美瑛自由行 Day2|白鬚瀑布、青池、旭川居酒屋雪中自駕初體驗
Asahikawa & Biei Day 2
Azuki / 2023.04
北海道自駕
初體驗
初體驗
第二天一早,本來計畫去二條市場,但體感太累,索性直接睡到自然醒,接著今天的重頭戲:租車、開啟北海道的自駕之旅。雖然天公不作美,整天雨不停,但旅程的驚喜與笑料,卻完全不失旅遊的興致。
Scrapped the plan to visit Nijo Market in the morning. The body said no, so we slept in instead. The real agenda for the day was picking up the rental car and officially starting the self-drive portion of the trip. The rain didn't stop once. It also didn't matter.
Driving in Hokkaido
北海道自駕初體驗:雨中的租車啟程
走到租車店時,雨還下得不小。店員妹妹熱情介紹,我們回了一句「お願いします」,她以為我們日文很流利,但其實只會幾句。最後全靠「圖+英文+比手畫腳」才搞定。領車時雨勢更大,我們還幫店員撐傘,結果他解說到一半忘記講油箱,最後才趕快補充,讓我們笑翻。就這樣,Jack 帶著緊張又興奮的心情,正式開啟北海道自駕模式。
The rain was already heavy by the time we walked to the rental car shop. The staff member greeted us with full enthusiasm, and we responded with "onegaishimasu," which she took as a sign that our Japanese was solid. It was not. The rest of the process ran on a system of diagrams, English words, and hand gestures.When we went out to collect the car, the rain got worse. We ended up holding an umbrella over the staff member while she walked us through everything. Somewhere in the middle of the explanation she forgot to mention the fuel tank, caught herself, and rushed back to add it. Jack took the wheel for the first time in Hokkaido, equal parts nervous and ready.
Shirahige Waterfall in Biei
美瑛白鬚瀑布:雨中雪景紀錄
在濛濛細雨裡,我們一路開到白鬚瀑布。沿途風景冷冽又壯觀,但現場真的冷到爆,雨水混著雪讓人幾乎待不住太久。倒是旁邊的小森林很有氛圍,我們忍不住在雪地裡測試各種「動漫角色玩雪的姿勢」。在玩得起勁時,Jack 突然「尿遁」,只好緊急撤退,好在遊客中心剛好在附近,才化解危機。
Drove through grey drizzle all the way to Shirahige Falls. The scenery along the route was cold and dramatic, and the falls themselves were worth the trip, though standing next to them in rain mixed with snow made it hard to stay long. The small forest nearby pulled us in instead. We spent more time than planned testing out various anime-style poses in the snow until Jack suddenly needed a bathroom with some urgency. Emergency retreat. The visitor center was close enough that the crisis was resolved without incident.
- 白鬚瀑布
- 地址:北海道上川郡美瑛町白金
- 建議停留時間:20–30 分鐘(天氣不好時更短)
Blue Pond: Is It Worth a Visit?
青池:值不值得一去?
下一站是傳說中的美瑛青池。現場看時,感覺就是一個「藍色的池子」。雖然顏色確實很特別,但因為天氣陰雨、氛圍稍嫌單調,最後還是快速離場。門票加停車費花了 ¥500,算是「到此一遊」的插曲。
Next was Aoike. In person, on a grey rainy afternoon, it read as a blue pond. A genuinely unusual shade of blue, but the overcast sky flattened everything out and we didn't stay long. ¥500 for entry and parking. Filed under "we were there.
- 白金青池
- 地址:北海道上川郡美瑛町白金
- 建議停留時間:20–40 分鐘(天氣晴朗時更值得久留)
Biei Shrine Stopover
短暫停留:美瑛神社
途中繞到 美瑛神社。規模不大,因為急著找廁所,最後只逛了一下下就離開。對我們來說,這一站更像是「緊急休息站」。
Stopped briefly at Biei Shrine, which was small and quiet. Mostly served as an urgent restroom break. We were in and out before any spiritual reflection could take place.
- 美瑛神社
- 地址:北海道上川郡美瑛町東町4丁目1-1
- 建議停留時間:10–20 分鐘
Izakaya in Asahikawa
居酒屋初體驗:不懂日文怎麼生存?
晚上抵達旭川,飯店設施很齊全,停車場還有連結通道,check-in 快速又親切。稍微休息後,我們走進一家位在地下一樓的居酒屋。老闆很熱情,但身為I人的我們,緊張加上聽不懂,一度尷尬到不行。點餐時原本以為是茶泡飯,結果送來的是漬物,驚訝到差點笑場。老闆後來熱情聊天,還推薦了「起司丸子」,順便問我們是不是新婚旅行、要不要去旭川動物園。最後結帳時還貼心送上一杯熱味噌湯。走出店門,天空竟然開始下雪,我們在路邊玩了一會兒,才回飯店泡澡堂。露天溫泉配著雪花,這一刻覺得「北海道的浪漫」完整了。
Arrived in Asahikawa in the evening. The hotel was well set up, with a covered walkway connecting to the parking structure and a smooth check-in. After a rest, we found an izakaya one floor underground and went in. The owner was immediately warm and talkative, which was a lot to navigate for two introverts who couldn't follow most of what was being said. Ordering something we thought was chazuke turned out to be pickled vegetables. We managed not to laugh out loud, barely. The owner kept the conversation going anyway, recommended the cheese balls, asked if we were on a honeymoon, and suggested Asahikawa Zoo for the next day. On the way out he sent us off with a hot bowl of miso soup. Outside, it was snowing. We stood on the street for a while just watching it come down, then went back to the hotel and got into the outdoor onsen. Snow falling, hot water, no one else around. That was the moment Hokkaido stopped being a destination and started feeling like something else entirely.
- Kuimonoya Wan Sapporoshiroishiten
- 地址:Hokkaido, Sapporo, Shiroishi Ward, Nangodori, 1-chome Minami−8−10 白石ガーデンプレイス B1
- 建議停留時間:90–120 分鐘
Day 2 Highlights
Day2 行程重點
・札幌出發 → 旭川(雨中租車)
・白鬚瀑布(冷冽雪景)
・美瑛青池(藍色插曲)
・美瑛神社(短暫停留)
・晚餐:旭川居酒屋初體驗
・住宿:Amanek飯店(大眾澡堂+雪中露天溫泉)
・白鬚瀑布(冷冽雪景)
・美瑛青池(藍色插曲)
・美瑛神社(短暫停留)
・晚餐:旭川居酒屋初體驗
・住宿:Amanek飯店(大眾澡堂+雪中露天溫泉)
・Sapporo to Asahikawa via Biei (rainy self-drive day one)
・Shirahige Falls (snow, cold, anime poses)
・Aoike (blue pond, grey sky, ¥500)
・Biei Shrine (emergency pit stop)
・Dinner: Asahikawa izakaya (cheese balls, miso soup send-off)
・Stay: Amanek Hotel (communal bath and outdoor onsen in the snow)
・Shirahige Falls (snow, cold, anime poses)
・Aoike (blue pond, grey sky, ¥500)
・Biei Shrine (emergency pit stop)
・Dinner: Asahikawa izakaya (cheese balls, miso soup send-off)
・Stay: Amanek Hotel (communal bath and outdoor onsen in the snow)
Reflection
Azuki旅行結語
雖然這一天雨勢不小、青池也有些單調,但雨中自駕、瀑布雪景、居酒屋插曲,讓旭川和美瑛的回憶更真實。特別是最後那場雪中溫泉,成了完美的收尾。
Rain all day, a pond that didn't quite cooperate, and a bathroom emergency at a waterfall. Still one of the better days of the trip. The izakaya owner's warmth and the snow falling into the outdoor bath at the end made everything else feel like setup.
QA time
QA時間
如果你遇到語言聽不懂的居酒屋老闆,你會選擇「裝懂隨便點」還是「硬著頭皮比手畫腳」?
If you walked into an izakaya and couldn't understand a word the owner said, what would you do? Play along and point at random, or go all in on gestures and hope for the best?
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