札幌｜都市散策與必吃美食
Sapporo｜City Walks & Must-Try Food
Azuki / 2023.04
獨特的北海道滋味
湯咖哩
湯咖哩
「為什麼在札幌，每個人都對湯咖哩情有獨鍾？為什麼藥妝店晚上 8 點會突然湧現搶購人潮？這些疑問，直到我親身走了一趟札幌，才真正找到答案。」札幌市北海道第一大縣市，既現代以及有慢活的街道，建築風格也偏比較歐式，結合我在札幌散步時的所見所感，搭配美食攻略、文化觀察與一些小小的隱藏版心得。
Why does everyone in Sapporo have an opinion about soup curry? And why do drugstores suddenly fill up with people at exactly 8pm? These were the questions I walked in with. By the time I left, I had answers, and a few new questions I wasn't expecting.Sapporo is Hokkaido's largest city, modern enough to feel effortless to navigate but unhurried enough that you actually want to walk. The architecture leans European in places, which gives certain streets an atmosphere you don't quite expect this far north. What follows is what I found wandering through it: food, cultural observations, and a few things most visitors walk right past.
Mini Guide：Must-Try Soup Curry in Sapporo
Mini Guide：札幌必吃湯咖哩
說到札幌美食，湯咖哩一定榜上有名。不同於一般咖哩，這裡的湯頭濃郁、帶點藥膳感，配上大量蔬菜，吃起來暖胃又解膩。
Soup curry is the dish Sapporo is most loyal to, and once you try it you understand why. Unlike regular curry, this version is broth-based, closer to something medicinal and warming, loaded with vegetables and designed to be drunk as much as eaten. Rich without being heavy, the kind of thing you want after a cold day outside.
小觀察：因為北海道冬天寒冷，人們更需要能直接喝的熱湯來暖身。加上當地盛產蔬菜與肉類，清爽的湯頭能凸顯食材原味，於是形成獨特的「湯版本咖喱」。
Worth noting: the logic behind it makes sense for Hokkaido. Long winters, local produce in abundance, and a need for something hot enough to drink. The lighter broth lets the ingredients speak, which is exactly what you want when the vegetables are this good.
Culture Lens：Sapporo Landmarks
Culture Lens：札幌的標誌性景點
・札幌時計台：可能是北海道最常被誤解的景點。比想像中小巧，但也因為如此，更顯得樸實。它就像一張「到此一遊」的名片。
・北海道神宮：這裡比市區鬧區安靜許多。夕陽照映下的櫻花，與都市的氛圍拉開對比，是個「緩慢呼吸」清幽午後散步空間。
・北海道神宮：這裡比市區鬧區安靜許多。夕陽照映下的櫻花，與都市的氛圍拉開對比，是個「緩慢呼吸」清幽午後散步空間。
・Sapporo Clock Tower: Probably the most misunderstood spot in Hokkaido. Smaller than expected, quieter than the photos suggest, and somehow more charming for it. Less of a destination, more of a "we walked past and stopped" kind of moment.
・Hokkaido Shrine: A different pace entirely from the city around it. Cherry blossoms in late afternoon light, wide paths, the kind of space that makes you breathe slower without deciding to. Worth the visit if you need a break from the busier streets.
・Hokkaido Shrine: A different pace entirely from the city around it. Cherry blossoms in late afternoon light, wide paths, the kind of space that makes you breathe slower without deciding to. Worth the visit if you need a break from the busier streets.
Hidden Gem：Sapporo After Dark
Hidden Gem：夜裡的札幌另一面
很多人只在札幌停留白天，但其實晚上的札幌才更有故事。
・薄野（すすきの）：燈紅酒綠的街區，融合了居酒屋、拉麵店與紅燈區文化。即便不進店，光是走在街上，霓虹燈與人潮就像讓人有開啟夜生活的篇章。
・藥妝店與超市：對觀光客來說，札幌的超市是最真實的「生活入口」。晚上 8 點過後的半價商品大戰，「貍小路」也是附近一個早晚都可以採買的好地方。
・薄野（すすきの）：燈紅酒綠的街區，融合了居酒屋、拉麵店與紅燈區文化。即便不進店，光是走在街上，霓虹燈與人潮就像讓人有開啟夜生活的篇章。
・藥妝店與超市：對觀光客來說，札幌的超市是最真實的「生活入口」。晚上 8 點過後的半價商品大戰，「貍小路」也是附近一個早晚都可以採買的好地方。
Most people see Sapporo in daylight and leave. The better version of the city comes out at night.
・Susukino: It's the neighborhood that runs on neon: izakayas, ramen shops, and the city's red-light district all occupying the same few blocks. You don't have to go into anything. Walking through is enough to feel the shift in energy.
・Drugstores and supermarkets: They are where the real local life is. After 8pm, discount stickers start appearing on food items and the competition for them is genuine. Tanuki-koji covered arcade nearby is good for shopping at almost any hour.
・Susukino: It's the neighborhood that runs on neon: izakayas, ramen shops, and the city's red-light district all occupying the same few blocks. You don't have to go into anything. Walking through is enough to feel the shift in energy.
・Drugstores and supermarkets: They are where the real local life is. After 8pm, discount stickers start appearing on food items and the competition for them is genuine. Tanuki-koji covered arcade nearby is good for shopping at almost any hour.
小觀察：自己體驗完超市半價，真心可以買到不少心儀的晚餐，東西也蠻好吃，如果想要體驗接地氣的活動，必須要試看看
Worth noting: the supermarket half-price experience is one of those things that sounds minor but ends up being a trip highlight. The food is good, the atmosphere is unexpectedly fun, and it costs almost nothing. If you want to feel like you're actually living in the city for a moment, this is the way in.
The Rhythm of Sapporo
札幌的節奏
札幌並不是一個「驚豔型」永遠像東京或大阪閃閃發光的城市，但卻是一個會讓人慢慢愛上的地方。白天可以走訪象徵性的地標，夜晚則用一碗拉麵或一場藥妝採購收尾。它不是熱鬧到擁擠的都市，而是一種帶著在飛機上欣賞寂靜的都市夜景生活感。
Sapporo doesn't announce itself the way Tokyo or Osaka does. It earns you slowly: a bowl of soup curry, an afternoon at the shrine, a late-night walk through Susukino with no particular destination. It's a city that feels good to be in without always giving you a reason why. The kind of place that only makes sense once you've already left.
延伸閱讀｜Read More
旅行必看｜Travel Essentials
行程攻略｜Hokkaido Itinerary Hub