根室｜日本最東端的漁港小鎮與俄羅斯歷史
Nemuro｜Japan’s Easternmost Fishing Town and Its Russian Ties
Azuki / 2023.04
日出之國極東點，
有一段日俄故事。
有一段日俄故事。
「在日本最東端，海浪聲夾雜著海的鹹味氣息，還有一段與俄羅斯交織的歷史。」根室，位於北海道的東端，是許多旅人不常造訪的冷門小鎮。這裡同時是漁港與邊境，海鮮的鮮美與地緣政治的陰影並存。以下，我將用旅行者的角度，帶你從美食、文化到歷史，一探這座城市的多層次樣貌。
At Japan's easternmost tip, the sound of waves comes with salt air and the weight of a history that still hasn't fully settled. Nemuro is the kind of town most travelers skip. A fishing port and a border town at the same time, where the seafood is exceptional and the geopolitical tension with Russia sits quietly in the background. Here's what it actually looks like when you show up and pay attention.
Mini Guide：Daily Life in Nemuro’s Fishing Port
Mini Guide：極東的漁港日常
提到根室，第一個浮現的關鍵字就是秋刀魚。這裡不只是北海道代表性的漁獲產地，更是當地祭典與庶民生活的核心。在金刀比羅神社，你甚至能買到「秋刀魚御守」，這是只有根室才有的特色。
・必嚐美食：秋刀魚壽司、花咲蟹料理。
・必嚐美食：秋刀魚壽司、花咲蟹料理。
Ask anyone in Nemuro what defines this town and the answer comes back the same: Pacific saury. It's not just the local catch, it's the rhythm of the place, woven into festivals, daily life, and even the souvenir shops. At Kotohira Shrine, you can pick up a saury omamori, a charm you won't find anywhere else in Japan.
・Must-try: saury sushi and hanamaki crab.
小觀察：秋刀魚在當地不只是漁獲，更是一種象徵。日本人常說「秋刀魚之城」代表豐收與堅韌，就像根室人在這片邊境土地上維持生活的縮影。
Quick note: if it's your first time driving on snow, be extra careful. Roads in Hokkaido during the winter-to-spring transition can still be icy and slippery in places you don't expect.
Culture Lens：Russian Influence in Nemuro
Culture Lens：俄羅斯的影子
根室與俄羅斯的關係，深深刻劃在它的歷史裡。北方四島議題：二戰後因領土歸屬未解，納沙布岬成為「失落之島」的象徵。當地設有「北方領土資料館」，提醒人們這段未竟的歷史。漁業貿易與交流，使這裡成為日本與俄羅斯之間的一道曖昧門戶。走在港口，既能感受到「邊境」的緊繃，又有種「世界盡頭」的孤寂。
Nemuro's relationship with Russia isn't just historical context. It's something you feel walking around.After World War II, the Northern Territories dispute left four nearby islands in legal limbo, and Nemuro became the closest point to what locals still call the lost islands. The Northern Territories Memorial Museum keeps that story visible. The fishing trade and cross-border exchanges have made this place something between a Japanese town and an uneasy threshold. Standing at the port, you get two feelings at once: the tension of a border, and the particular loneliness of a place at the edge of the world.
與其他北海道小鎮不同，根室街上偶爾能見到俄語標示。
Russian signage appears occasionally on the streets.
Hidden Gem：Cape Nosappu, Japan’s Easternmost Point
Hidden Gem：納沙布岬
作為日本本土最東端，納沙布岬是一個極具象徵意義的景點。在這裡你可以拿到一張「極東證明」，蓋章後成為獨一無二的旅行紀念。現場氛圍海風比其他地方更冷冽，成群的海鷗在頭頂盤旋，身邊是販售花咲蟹的小攤與旗幟。
The easternmost point of mainland Japan. The wind here is sharper than anywhere else on the trip, seagulls circle overhead, and small stalls selling hanamaki crab line the path to the cape.What makes it worth the detour is the Extreme East Certificate. Get your stamp, take it home, and you have something genuinely unrepeatable.
文化小插曲：雖然是冷門景點，但每當站在這片土地，總讓人聯想到「日本極東」與「俄羅斯距離」的複雜感。
Small cultural note: standing here with Russia visible in the distance, the complexity of the Northern Territories dispute stops being abstract. It becomes a view.
The Layers of Nemuro
邊境的多重面貌
根室是一個連日本人都有可能不會造訪的地方。它的魅力來自「矛盾與混合」：既是漁港小鎮、又是邊境歷史現場；既能大啖秋刀魚、又會被提醒北方四島的未解爭議。對旅人而言，這裡或許不算必踩點，但卻能給你比風景更深的「故事感」。
Nemuro is the kind of place most travelers, including Japanese ones, never make it to. Its appeal isn't obvious from the outside. But underneath the fishing port surface is a town carrying real historical weight: unresolved borders, a culture shaped by proximity to another country, and a quiet stubbornness that comes from living at the edge of things. You won't leave with the most dramatic photos of the trip. You'll leave with a better story.
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旅行必看｜Travel Essentials
行程攻略｜Hokkaido Itinerary Hub