北海道登別自由行 Day5｜登別溫泉地獄谷、蜂巢冰淇淋、十勝牛懷石料理
Noboribetsu Travel Guide
Azuki / 2023.04
早起長途跋涉的
JR旅途
JR旅途
第五天，我們正式從自駕切換回 JR 模式。早起在飯店用早餐，本來以為只是簡單的餐點，沒想到卻驚喜連連：季節限定料理＋優格超好吃，而且最大亮點是 早上 5:30 就開始供應，非常適合趕早班列車的旅人。
Day five, we switched back to JR mode. Woke up early for breakfast at the hotel, expecting something simple. It wasn't. Seasonal dishes, yogurt that was genuinely worth writing home about, and the whole thing available from 5:30am. Perfect for anyone catching an early train, which was exactly us.
Kushiro to Noboribetsu
JR車程：從釧路到南千歲大遷徙
今天是大遷徙移動日，搭乘 JR 一路往南，車程長達四小時。途中仍能遠遠看到大雪山的雪白山景，算是移動中的小驚喜。到南千歲轉車時，Jack 還吃了一支冰淇淋解嘴饞。我們也去逛了 outlet，但東西並不吸引人，最後只在土產店買了兩條蟹肉棒、一條海膽、還有一瓶當地才有的瓜納納汽水當旅途中的零食。
A big moving day. Took the JR south for four hours, and somewhere along the way the snow-capped Daisetsuzan range appeared through the window, the kind of view that makes a long train ride feel worthwhile. At Minami-Chitose, Jack grabbed an ice cream to pass the time. We wandered through the outlet mall but nothing caught our eye, so we left with two crab sticks, a tube of sea urchin, and a bottle of Guaraná soda that you can only find locally. Good enough.
- 南千歲 Outlet Mall Rera
- 地址：北海道千歲市柏台南1丁目2-1
- 建議停留時間：40–60 分鐘
Soba Noodles & Tempura Rice Bowl
登別初食：蕎麥與天婦羅丼
抵達登別後，還以為錯過上登別的公車，幸好只是誤會。小插曲中還看到一對情侶用英文問在地阿嬤班車資訊，阿嬤拼命解釋卻語言不通，場景可愛又有點好笑。到登別的第一站，我們先去吃了一碗 蕎麥麵。我誤點成熱蕎麥，但味道依舊很好；Jack 的天婦羅丼則份量十足，價格也很划算，為登別之旅拉開序幕。
Arriving in Noboribetsu, we briefly panicked thinking we'd missed the bus up to the onsen area. Turned out to be a misread. While waiting, we watched a couple try to ask a local grandmother about the bus schedule in English. She did her best to explain in Japanese. Nobody fully understood anyone, but both sides kept trying. Quietly entertaining. First meal in Noboribetsu was soba. I accidentally ordered the hot version when I meant to get cold, but it was good anyway. Jack's tempura don came out generous and well-priced. A solid way to start.
- 蕎麥麵店 福庵
- 地址：30 Noboribetsuonsencho, Noboribetsu, Hokkaido
- 建議停留時間：40–60 分鐘
Hell Valley & Oyunuma Pond Trails
地獄谷與大湯沼：鹿群與異國旅人
下午前往登別最著名的 地獄谷。沿著火山地貌步道前進，熱氣蒸騰、景象酷似台灣的陽明山硫磺谷。爬到半山腰，還遇見幾隻野鹿悠哉吃草，讓我們停下腳步靜靜欣賞。在大湯沼觀景台，則遇到西班牙人與韓國人請我們幫忙拍照，國際交流的拍照技術讓這趟旅程更有趣。
Spent the afternoon at Jigokudani. The volcanic trail winds through steam vents and sulfur-stained rock, not unlike Yangmingshan back in Taiwan but with a different kind of quiet. Halfway up, a few wild deer were grazing by the path, completely unbothered. We stopped and watched for a while without saying much. At the Oyunuma observation deck, a Spanish couple and a Korean traveler asked us to take their photos. Brief international exchange, good energy.
- 登別地獄谷 & 大湯沼
- 地址：北海道登別市登別溫泉町
- 建議停留時間：60–90 分鐘
Honeycomb Ice Cream
蜂巢冰淇淋：中文推銷的親切感
下山後，順道進入一家蜂蜜專賣店。本來只是隨意看看蜂巢，結果店員熱情推銷，還直接用中文和我們對話，親切到像老朋友。最後買了蜂蜜飲料與冰淇淋，出店時才發現下雨了。
On the way back down, we ducked into a honey specialty shop, mostly out of curiosity. The staff switched to Mandarin the moment they figured out where we were from and proceeded to walk us through everything with the warmth of someone who'd known us for years. Left with honey drinks and soft serve. Stepped outside to find it had started raining.
- はちみつの杉養蜂園 登別店
- 地址：49 Noboribetsuonsencho, Noboribetsu, Hokkaido
- 建議停留時間：20–30 分鐘
Tokachi Beef & Kaiseki Dinner in Noboribetsu
在地美食：十勝牛與懷石料理
晚餐回到飯店，換上浴衣享受正統的日式懷石料理。我選擇懷石套餐，一道道小盤上桌，擺盤精緻，滋味細膩。Jack 則選了 烤十勝牛套餐，肉質鮮嫩，香氣四溢。餐後我們去欣賞地獄谷帝王的表演，壯觀又帶點神秘。
Back at the hotel, changed into yukata and sat down for kaiseki. Course after course, each one small and precise, the kind of meal that slows you down on purpose. Jack went with the Tokachi beef set, tender and fragrant in a way that made the choice look very smart. After dinner, we caught the Jigokudani demon performance outside, theatrical and a little eerie in the best way.
- いでゆそば
- 地址：Hokkaido, Noboribetsu, Noboribetsuonsencho, 55
- 建議停留時間：20–30 分鐘
Onsen Experience
登別溫泉：十種溫泉大澡堂
結束一天行程後，最期待的就是 登別溫泉。飯店的大浴場擁有十種以上的湯池，讓人一次泡好泡滿。還提供「蝦夷茶」暖身，可惜商店已打烊，不然就能來瓶泡湯後必喝的牛奶。如果早上來，還能邊泡湯邊看見地獄谷火山景觀，留下了下次再訪的理由。
The real highlight of the night was the onsen. The hotel's grand bath connects to the Daiichi Takimotokan next door, giving access to over ten different spring types. We stayed longer than planned. The hotel also offered Ezo tea to warm up after soaking, though the shop had already closed by then, so the classic post-bath milk had to wait for another trip. Worth noting: coming in the morning means you can soak while looking directly out at the volcanic landscape. Reason enough to come back.
- 第一瀧本館
- 地址：55 Noboribetsuonsencho, Noboribetsu
- 建議停留時間：2小時
Day 5 Highlights
Day5 行程重點
・早餐：飯店餐廳（5:30 開始供應早餐）
・移動：旭川 → 南千歲 → 登別
・午餐：登別蕎麥麵 & 天婦羅丼
・景點：登別地獄谷 & 大湯沼（野鹿、異國旅人拍照技術交流）
・下午：蜂蜜店（中文推銷＋蜂巢冰淇淋）
・晚餐：懷石料理 & 十勝牛套餐
・住宿：adex inn（與隔壁的第一瀧本館有合作十種溫泉大澡堂）
・移動：旭川 → 南千歲 → 登別
・午餐：登別蕎麥麵 & 天婦羅丼
・景點：登別地獄谷 & 大湯沼（野鹿、異國旅人拍照技術交流）
・下午：蜂蜜店（中文推銷＋蜂巢冰淇淋）
・晚餐：懷石料理 & 十勝牛套餐
・住宿：adex inn（與隔壁的第一瀧本館有合作十種溫泉大澡堂）
・Breakfast: hotel restaurant (open from 5:30am)
・Travel: Asahikawa to Noboribetsu via Minami-Chitose
・Lunch: soba and tempura don in Noboribetsu
・Sightseeing: Jigokudani and Oyunuma (wild deer, international photo exchange)
・Afternoon: honey shop with surprise Mandarin service
・Dinner: kaiseki and Tokachi beef set
・Stay: Adex Inn (connected to Daiichi Takimotokan's onsen)
・Travel: Asahikawa to Noboribetsu via Minami-Chitose
・Lunch: soba and tempura don in Noboribetsu
・Sightseeing: Jigokudani and Oyunuma (wild deer, international photo exchange)
・Afternoon: honey shop with surprise Mandarin service
・Dinner: kaiseki and Tokachi beef set
・Stay: Adex Inn (connected to Daiichi Takimotokan's onsen)
Reflection
Azuki旅行結語
登別給我的印象是「可以好好舒壓泡湯及欣賞美景」的好地方。從野鹿到地獄谷、從蜂蜜店到穿浴衣吃懷石，正因為大家好好保存這裡才有更好的天然場景可以欣賞，形成一個觀光勝地。
Noboribetsu delivered on every front: wild deer on a volcanic trail, a honey shop that felt like running into an old friend, kaiseki by lamplight, and ten types of hot springs to end the night. The natural scenery here is worth preserving, and you can feel that people here know it.
QA time
QA時間
你旅行時比較像 P 人（隨性亂走），還是 J 人（計畫周全）呢？
Are you more of a P-type traveler (go with the flow) or a J-type (every hour planned out)?
延伸閱讀｜Read More
旅行必看｜Travel Essentials
行程攻略｜Hokkaido Itinerary Hub