Took the train to Lake Toya and felt the mood shift the second we reached the waterfront. Clear water, Mt. Yotei in the distance, the kind of view that looks edited but isn't. Lunch was at a small family-run curry place where the owner greeted us like regulars and sent out portions that were way bigger than expected, and somehow even better than they looked. She stopped by on our way out to ask if everything was good. It was. After lunch, a boat ride on the lake where a group of Korean grandmothers were having the time of their lives feeding seagulls, which was genuinely entertaining. On the way back we stumbled across a shrine with a free foot bath, a small and very welcome surprise.