北海道根室・釧路自由行 Day4｜金刀比羅神社、日本極東點、幣舞橋夕陽
Nemuro & Kushiro Day 4
Azuki / 2023.04
日本極東點
的故事
的故事
清晨與民宿老闆道別，她依舊熱情地揮手說著「下次見」。一路穿越牧場地帶，在小七買了簡單早餐。驚喜的是，7-11的拿鐵不是現沖，而是冷藏自取，雖然選擇不多，但意外好喝。這一天，我們從秋刀魚御守開始，前往日本最東端，再到Moo市場解鎖秋刀魚壽司，最後在幣舞橋的夕陽下結束旅程。
Said goodbye to the guesthouse owner in the early morning. She waved us off with the same warmth she'd had the whole stay, already saying "see you next time" before we'd even turned to leave. Drove through open pasture land and stopped at a 7-Eleven for breakfast. The latte came pre-chilled from the fridge rather than freshly made, limited options, but surprisingly good.
The day moved through a full arc: a saury omamori at the shrine, the easternmost point of mainland Japan, saury sushi at Moo Market, and a sunset at Nusaomoi Bridge to close it all out.
Konpira Shrine: Sanma Omamori & Sea View Shrine
金刀比羅神社：秋刀魚御守與海上神社
一抵達神社，眼前就是根室市的全景。年輕的住持弟弟親切迎接，還笑著和我們打招呼。原來北海道的神社都有「特製御守」，而這裡的代表是「一隻秋刀魚」！Jack 想體驗一下，於是抽籤祈願，後來也拉著我一起體驗。我們還釣了「秋刀魚御守」，硬幣搭配機器的海浪聲，秋刀魚就這樣「上岸」囉。住持弟弟還熱情邀請我們參觀後殿，展示歷年祭典的照片與金碧輝煌的神轎。只是我在一旁為了拍「海上神社」角度時，誤打擾到一位正在賞海的阿公，他表情好像在說：「這地方有什麼好拍的？」
Arrived at the shrine to a full panoramic view of Nemuro city spread out below. The head priest's younger brother greeted us at the entrance, relaxed and genuinely friendly. Turns out Hokkaido shrines often have their own specialty charms, and here the signature one is a saury fish. Jack wanted to try the fortune draw, pulled me in with him, and then we both ended up "fishing" for our saury omamori: drop a coin, listen to the sound of ocean waves through the machine, and watch the little fish come ashore. The younger priest then invited us around to the inner hall to see festival photos and a gleaming portable shrine from past ceremonies. Meanwhile I'd wandered off trying to get the right angle of the "shrine over the sea" shot, and accidentally disturbed an elderly man who was quietly enjoying the view. His expression said everything: "what exactly are you photographing here?
Japan’s Easternmost Point: Cape Nosappu
日本極東點：納沙布岬
下一站來到日本極東點（納沙布岬）。海鷗成群，沿途都是販售花咲蟹的店家。當地最有趣的紀念品是 ¥200 的「極東證明」，上面還蓋章留念。不過這片土地也帶有沉重歷史：因日俄戰爭失去北方四島，讓這裡多了一層政治色彩，小插曲：在遊客中心，一位阿公要送我們「極東證明」。Jack 以為也要收錢，一直說不要。最後另一位會講英文阿伯出面才解釋清楚，原本要求需要登記車牌，但發現我們是租車的就沒登記了，想必是因為來這邊的人數極少想要收集看看數據吧。
Next stop, Cape Nosappu, the easternmost point of mainland Japan. Seagulls everywhere, hanamaki crab shops lining the road in, and a ¥200 Extreme East Certificate with an official stamp as the souvenir of choice. The place carries more weight than it looks. The Northern Territories dispute, the islands lost after the war with Russia, hangs over this stretch of coastline in a way that's hard to shake once you know the history. Small moment at the visitor center: an elderly man tried to give us the certificate for free. Jack assumed it still cost something and kept declining. A second gentleman who spoke some English stepped in to clear things up. Turns out they wanted to log our license plate for data collection, realized we were in a rental, and let it go. Apparently so few people make it out here that they're trying to track who shows up.
- 納沙布岬（日本最東端）
- 地址：北海道根室市納沙布
- 建議停留時間：40–60 分鐘
Nemuro & Kushiro: Sanma Sushi at Moo Market
根室市區：根室花丸公休與秋刀魚壽司
原本打算去吃有名的根室花丸壽司，結果才發現週二公休！我們只好轉往其他迴轉壽司，但很多店也剛好休息。途中還遇到一台沒打方向燈就硬擠過來的車，幸好 Jack 反應快才沒釀成意外。最後只能驅車返回釧路，先到釧路市場找吃的，但五點就接近打烊，到的時候攤位收得差不多。肚子餓得受不了，我先嗑了一包洋芋片頂著。最後在 Moo 市場，Jack 終於吃到朝思暮想的「秋刀魚壽司」。紫蘇味略重、價格偏高，但解鎖了北海道限定的心願，也算值得。
Planned to eat at the famous Nemuro Hanamaru sushi. Closed on Tuesdays. Most of the other options nearby were also closed. On the drive back toward Kushiro, a car cut in without signaling and Jack had to react fast to avoid contact. Arrived at Kushiro Market just before 5pm to find most stalls already packing up. Hungry enough that I opened a bag of chips in the car just to survive. Eventually made it to Moo Market, where Jack finally got his saury sushi. Heavy on the shiso, a little pricey, but it was the one thing he'd wanted to eat since we arrived in Hokkaido. Unlocked.
- 釧路Moo市場
- 地址：北海道釧路市錦町2丁目4
- 建議停留時間：40–60 分鐘
Sunset at Nusamai Bridge in Kushiro
幣舞橋夕陽與釧路入住
傍晚到幣舞橋，正好趕上夕陽。粉橘色灑落在釧路川上，替這一日畫下完美句點。還車的時候，租車公司一次派出三人：一人檢查、一人跑手續、一人翻譯，場面超正式。Check-in 時又鬧出插曲，誤把「歩いて」講成「危ない」，櫃檯只能尷尬微笑點頭能理解XD。最後還請飯店幫忙叫計程車去吃壽司，司機阿公熱心聊天，還問我們「你們國家是用什麼語言？」臨下車前，他更主動推薦了許多迴轉壽司必點名單。
Caught the sunset at Nusamai Bridge just in time. Pink and orange across the Kushiro River, the kind of light that makes you stop moving for a minute.
Returning the rental car turned into a small ceremony: three staff members showed up at once, one to inspect, one to handle the paperwork, one to translate. Very official.Hotel check-in had its own moment. Trying to say "walk" in Japanese, I said "dangerous" instead. The front desk staff smiled and nodded with the patience of someone who has seen this many times. We asked the hotel to call a taxi for dinner, and the driver spent the whole ride asking about Taiwan, what language we speak, what the food is like. Just before we got out, he pulled out an unsolicited list of must-order items at the sushi restaurant. We took his advice.
- 幣舞橋
- 地址：北海道釧路市北大通
- 建議停留時間：20–30 分鐘
Day 4 Highlights
Day4 行程重點
・早餐：小七拿鐵（冷藏自取）
・金刀比羅神社（秋刀魚御守體驗）
・日本極東點（納沙布岬＆極東證明）
・午晚餐：市場＆Moo市場（秋刀魚壽司）
・景點：幣舞橋夕陽
・住宿：Comfort Hotel
・金刀比羅神社（秋刀魚御守體驗）
・日本極東點（納沙布岬＆極東證明）
・午晚餐：市場＆Moo市場（秋刀魚壽司）
・景點：幣舞橋夕陽
・住宿：Comfort Hotel
・Breakfast: 7-Eleven chilled latte
・Kotohira Shrine: saury omamori and fortune draw
・Cape Nosappu: easternmost point and Extreme East Certificate
・Lunch: Kushiro Market and Moo Market (saury sushi, finally)
・Sunset: Nusamai Bridge
・Stay: Comfort Hotel
・Kotohira Shrine: saury omamori and fortune draw
・Cape Nosappu: easternmost point and Extreme East Certificate
・Lunch: Kushiro Market and Moo Market (saury sushi, finally)
・Sunset: Nusamai Bridge
・Stay: Comfort Hotel
Reflection
Azuki旅行結語
今天的主題是「極東驚喜與美食插曲」。從秋刀魚御守、極東證明，到Jack誤會阿公要收錢，每一幕都荒唐又好笑。雖然錯過根室花丸壽司，但夕陽與計程車阿公的熱情，讓釧路成了難忘的落腳點。
Today ran on surprises and small mishaps: the saury charm machine, Jack declining a free certificate, the closed sushi restaurant, the chips in the car. Every detour led somewhere. Kushiro ended up being one of the warmest stops of the trip, mostly because of a taxi driver who cared enough to send us off with a dining recommendation.
QA time
QA時間
如果你能收藏一張「極東證明書」，會想真的跑一趟納沙布岬打卡嗎？還是覺得「照片就好」？
If you could collect your own Extreme East Certificate, would you actually make the trip to Cape Nosappu? Or is a photo good enough?
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