香港自由行 Day5｜油麻地廟街、機場快線返程紀錄
Hong Kong Day 5 Itinerary
Azuki / 2023.07
空氣中
那股熟悉的潮濕
那股熟悉的潮濕
最後一天醒來，窗外依舊是香港夏天特有的潮濕空氣。 明明只是第五天，鼻子卻已經習慣了這座城市的氣味。空氣裡依然瀰漫著那股熟悉的潮濕味，但此刻竟多了一絲離別的不捨。這一天，我們回到了最初的起點——油麻地，用一份外帶的脆皮燒臘在公園裡品嚐，作為最終在香港的最後一道正餐。
The last morning. The air outside was the same humid Hong Kong summer air, but something about it felt different on day five. The smell of the city had become familiar without us noticing. There was something in it now that felt like the beginning of missing it. We went back to Yau Ma Tei, back to where the trip had started, for one last proper meal before the airport.
Roast Meats at Temple Street｜The Last Proper Meal
廟街最在地的脆皮燒臘
為了找尋最道地的滋味，我們搭地鐵回到第一天吃甜品的廟街附近。
選了一間看起來裝潢不太起眼、但燒臘看起來很美味的店。
老闆只會講廣東話，所以點餐過程像是一場比手畫腳的益智遊戲，在來回幾次之後，我們終於達成共識——「來一份！雙拼飯」。
一份才 20 幾塊港幣的雙拼，卻擁有讓人驚豔的份量。
選了一間看起來裝潢不太起眼、但燒臘看起來很美味的店。
老闆只會講廣東話，所以點餐過程像是一場比手畫腳的益智遊戲，在來回幾次之後，我們終於達成共識——「來一份！雙拼飯」。
一份才 20 幾塊港幣的雙拼，卻擁有讓人驚豔的份量。
Near Temple Street, close to where we'd had dessert on the first night. The shop we picked didn't look like much from outside, but the meats hanging in the window made the decision easy. The owner spoke only Cantonese. Ordering involved pointing, gesturing, a few rounds of back-and-forth, and eventually landing on what we actually wanted: roast duck and crispy pork rice. Around HKD$20. The portion was generous enough to make us check twice.
我們提著買來正熱呼呼的便當，走到附近的公園品嚐這頓美味佳餚。
咬下脆皮燒肉的那一刻，「喀滋」作響，酥脆的表皮在齒間崩解，油脂在舌尖化開；
鴨肉大塊且多汁，咬下去是真的會噴汁的那種豪邁。
坐在公園長椅上，沒有餐廳、沒有冷氣，只有一盒燒臘飯，卻意外成了整趟旅程畫龍點睛的一餐。
咬下脆皮燒肉的那一刻，「喀滋」作響，酥脆的表皮在齒間崩解，油脂在舌尖化開；
鴨肉大塊且多汁，咬下去是真的會噴汁的那種豪邁。
坐在公園長椅上，沒有餐廳、沒有冷氣，只有一盒燒臘飯，卻意外成了整趟旅程畫龍點睛的一餐。
We carried it to a nearby park and ate on a bench. The first bite of crispy pork came with a sharp crack, the skin giving way completely, fat dissolving on the tongue almost immediately. The duck was thick-cut and properly juicy, the kind that drips if you're not paying attention. No restaurant, no air conditioning, just a bench and a box of roast meat in the open air. It turned out to be the meal that tied the whole trip together.
The One Regret
此趟的唯一遺憾
吃完燒臘，原本 Jack 心心念念想要再去吃金華冰廳的菠蘿油作為完美句點。
然而，計畫總是趕不上變化。
走到地鐵站時，他摸遍了全身的口袋，他臉色一沉——「八達通卡不見了」。
那一瞬間，焦慮早就超越了食慾，他直接宣布：「不吃菠蘿油了！」
然而，計畫總是趕不上變化。
走到地鐵站時，他摸遍了全身的口袋，他臉色一沉——「八達通卡不見了」。
那一瞬間，焦慮早就超越了食慾，他直接宣布：「不吃菠蘿油了！」
After the roast meats, Jack had his heart set on a pineapple bun with butter from Kam Wah Cafe as the final note of the trip.
Then, walking toward the MTR station, he checked his pockets and went quiet. The Octopus card was gone.
Hunger gave way to anxiety on the spot. The pineapple bun was cancelled without discussion. We ran back to the park.
Then, walking toward the MTR station, he checked his pockets and went quiet. The Octopus card was gone.
Hunger gave way to anxiety on the spot. The pineapple bun was cancelled without discussion. We ran back to the park.
我們沿著原路狂奔回剛剛吃飯的公園。
那張橘色的八達通就靜靜地躺在公園的長椅上，彷彿在等著我們回來。
雖然找回了卡片，但那顆錯過的菠蘿油，成了這趟旅程裡一個小小的遺憾。
那張橘色的八達通就靜靜地躺在公園的長椅上，彷彿在等著我們回來。
雖然找回了卡片，但那顆錯過的菠蘿油，成了這趟旅程裡一個小小的遺憾。
The orange card was sitting on the bench, exactly where we'd left it, waiting. Relief, then a small and specific regret about the bun we never got.
That pineapple bun with butter became the one thing this trip didn't quite finish.
That pineapple bun with butter became the one thing this trip didn't quite finish.
Red Minibus & the Airport Express
紅Van小巴與機場快線
算了一下時間，搭地鐵轉車再去機場至少要半小時。
為了省時，也為了最後一次體驗當地人的交通，我們決定跳上一輛紅頂小巴，來點特別的。
在香港，紅 Van 在這座城市的街巷裡鑽動，速度快得驚人。
為了省時，也為了最後一次體驗當地人的交通，我們決定跳上一輛紅頂小巴，來點特別的。
在香港，紅 Van 在這座城市的街巷裡鑽動，速度快得驚人。
The MTR route to the airport would have taken at least half an hour with the transfer. We opted for a red minibus instead, partly to save time, partly for one last taste of how the city actually moves.
抵達轉運站後，原本擔心八達通餘額不足，還好遇到了一位熱心的站務員。
他建議我們購買「機場快線 2 人行單程套票」（約 150 港幣），比分開刷卡更划算。
「這張卡片就讓你們留著紀念吧！」
辦理退卡時，站務員笑著把卡片遞回給我們，
還幫我們解決這幾天的疑問，耐心解釋為什麼港幣有十元硬幣與鈔票的差別。
這份來自當地人的善舉，讓我們在搭上機場快線時、看著窗外湛藍的海景時，心裡暖暖的。
他建議我們購買「機場快線 2 人行單程套票」（約 150 港幣），比分開刷卡更划算。
「這張卡片就讓你們留著紀念吧！」
辦理退卡時，站務員笑著把卡片遞回給我們，
還幫我們解決這幾天的疑問，耐心解釋為什麼港幣有十元硬幣與鈔票的差別。
這份來自當地人的善舉，讓我們在搭上機場快線時、看著窗外湛藍的海景時，心裡暖暖的。
Red minibuses navigate Hong Kong's backstreets with a speed and confidence that takes some getting used to. At the transfer station, a staff member noticed us looking uncertain about our Octopus balance and suggested the two-person Airport Express single ticket instead, around HKD$150, cheaper than tapping in separately.
"Keep the card as a souvenir," he said, handing it back after processing the refund. Then he took the time to explain something we'd been quietly confused about all week: why Hong Kong has both a HKD$10 coin and a HKD$10 note in circulation at the same time.
A small kindness from a stranger, right before the train pulled out along the coast. We watched the sea through the window and felt the warmth of it.
The Bear Cookies That Weren't｜Airport Shopping & the Flight Home
香港伴手禮小熊餅乾
抵達機場，又是一場混戰。
櫃檯人員用中文問我們問題，我們竟然因為口音關係，導致聽不懂而已讀亂回，場面一度尷尬又喜感。
入關後才發現機場內別有洞天，免稅店數量多得讓人眼花撩亂。
為了消耗掉最後的零錢硬幣，我們買了兩瓶巧克力牛奶，還有買了幾盒以為是當地有名的小熊餅乾。
直到回台灣打開來吃，才發現那根本不是傳說中的 Jenny Bakery，而是徹頭徹尾的「fake小熊餅乾」，口感乾硬到不知道在吃什麼。
櫃檯人員用中文問我們問題，我們竟然因為口音關係，導致聽不懂而已讀亂回，場面一度尷尬又喜感。
入關後才發現機場內別有洞天，免稅店數量多得讓人眼花撩亂。
為了消耗掉最後的零錢硬幣，我們買了兩瓶巧克力牛奶，還有買了幾盒以為是當地有名的小熊餅乾。
直到回台灣打開來吃，才發現那根本不是傳說中的 Jenny Bakery，而是徹頭徹尾的「fake小熊餅乾」，口感乾硬到不知道在吃什麼。
The airport check-in counter: a staff member asked us something in Mandarin, and between the accent and five days of accumulated fatigue, we answered something that didn't quite match the question. Mildly embarrassing, genuinely funny in retrospect.
Once through security, the duty-free area turned out to be larger than expected. We spent our remaining coins on two bottles of chocolate milk and a few boxes of what we assumed were the famous bear-shaped butter cookies. The packaging looked convincing.
Back in Taiwan, we opened them and discovered they were not Jenny Bakery. Not even close. Dry, hard, the kind of cookie that makes you question every decision that led to it. We laughed more than we were annoyed.
Once through security, the duty-free area turned out to be larger than expected. We spent our remaining coins on two bottles of chocolate milk and a few boxes of what we assumed were the famous bear-shaped butter cookies. The packaging looked convincing.
Back in Taiwan, we opened them and discovered they were not Jenny Bakery. Not even close. Dry, hard, the kind of cookie that makes you question every decision that led to it. We laughed more than we were annoyed.
飛機起飛，我幸運地坐在窗邊。
看著這座垂直生長的城市逐漸縮小成樂高積木般的輪廓，
心裡浮現的念頭是：這趟旅程，讓我更珍惜台灣的日常了。
看著這座垂直生長的城市逐漸縮小成樂高積木般的輪廓，
心裡浮現的念頭是：這趟旅程，讓我更珍惜台灣的日常了。
I had a window seat for takeoff. Watched the city shrink into something resembling a Lego model, the vertical density of it becoming almost abstract from above. The thought that came, somewhere over the water: this trip made me appreciate the ordinary parts of home more than I expected.
Day 5 Highlights
Day 5 行程重點
・廟街燒臘
・油麻地公園
・紅 Van 小巴
・機場快線
・香港國際機場
・油麻地公園
・紅 Van 小巴
・機場快線
・香港國際機場
・Temple Street Roast Meats
・Yau Ma Tei Park
・Red Minibus
・Airport Express
・Hong Kong International Airport
・Yau Ma Tei Park
・Red Minibus
・Airport Express
・Hong Kong International Airport
Reflection
Azuki旅行結語
這五天的香港，是一場高密度的城市練習。我們在重慶大廈裡看見另一種城市生活的樣貌，在點錯餐的時刻學會隨遇而安，在輸光賽馬錢的午後學會放下執念，在買到假餅乾的瞬間學會釋然。雖然最後的伴手禮餅乾不怎樣，雖然很多意外，雖然每天走到腿快斷掉。但正是這些粗糙的顆粒成為旅行的回憶，讓這趟旅行更有了重量。再見，香港。謝謝你用夏天的快節奏，讓我們重新感到知足的一切。
Five days in Hong Kong felt like an intensive course in how to exist inside a city that has no interest in waiting for you. We found a different version of urban life in the corridors of Chungking Mansions. Learned to make peace with a wrong order, to release a losing bet without looking back, to laugh at a bag of cookies that turned out to be nothing like what was promised. The cookies were genuinely bad. There were more unplanned moments than planned ones. Our legs gave out most evenings. But it's the rough edges that give a trip its weight. Not the skyline or the itinerary, but the texture of the days themselves, the small failures and the small recoveries, the things that didn't go right and turned out to be worth remembering anyway. Goodbye, Hong Kong. Thank you for the heat, the speed, and for quietly reminding us how much we already have.
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旅行必看｜Travel Essentials
行程攻略｜HongKong Itinerary Hub
秘境觀察｜Hidden Gems & Culture
旅途紀錄｜Photo Diary