・香港自由行 Day1|天壇大佛、昂坪360、尖沙咀夜景一日遊
Hong Kong Day 1 Itinerary
Azuki / 2023.07
七月香港
溼熱交加
溼熱交加
七月的香港,真正迎接我們的不是維多利亞港,而是濕度。那是一種黏在皮膚上的熱,一踏出機場便無法忽視。而這一天,我們將從雲中的大佛,一路走進重慶大廈的人間迷宮。感受電梯裡的窒息與曖昧。從大佛的莊嚴清幽,到廟街煲仔飯的煙火氣。
Hong Kong in July: our true welcome came not from Victoria Harbour, but from the humidity, a heavy heat clinging to the skin, unavoidable from the very first step outside the airport. On this day, we would traverse from the Big Buddha shrouded in clouds to the earthly labyrinth of Chungking Mansions, enduring the suffocating yet intriguing air within the elevators. A transition from the solemn tranquility of the Buddha to the raw, lively smoke of Temple Street’s claypot rice.
Getting There|The Cantonese Lesson
機場到東涌:粵語發音課
抵達香港機場後,快速融入這座城市頻率的方法,就是體驗便利商店。我們香港第一餐就交給了 7-11 的腸粉與魚蛋,配上一杯包裝寫著「鮮奶咖啡」、喝起來卻是熟悉的拿鐵。簡單,卻有種在地感。
First stop after landing: 7-Eleven. Cheung fun, fish balls, and a carton labelled "fresh milk coffee" that tasted exactly like a latte. Simple, and somehow exactly right for the mood.
前往搭乘纜車的東涌,最內行的省錢方式是搭乘 S1 巴士。但在詢問工作人員時,我們馬上遭遇了有趣的語言碰撞情況劇。
我們:「請問『東涌』(Dong Chong)怎麼走?」
工作人員皺眉:「是東涌(Tung Chung)才對啦!不然香港人根本聽不懂。」
原來,同樣的繁體中文,在粵語的音韻裡有著截然不同的發音邏輯。讓我們覺得有趣。
上了雙層巴士的上層,看著窗外飛逝的景色,我們正式切換到了香港的節奏。
我們:「請問『東涌』(Dong Chong)怎麼走?」
工作人員皺眉:「是東涌(Tung Chung)才對啦!不然香港人根本聽不懂。」
原來,同樣的繁體中文,在粵語的音韻裡有著截然不同的發音邏輯。讓我們覺得有趣。
上了雙層巴士的上層,看著窗外飛逝的景色,我們正式切換到了香港的節奏。
To get to Tung Chung for the cable car, the S1 bus is the local move.
We found this out after asking an airport worker for directions to "Dong Chong."
She frowned. "It's Tung Chung. Hong Kong people won't understand you otherwise."
Same characters, completely different sounds. Cantonese operates on its own logic.
We filed the lesson away, climbed to the upper deck of the bus, and watched the city start to appear through the window.
We found this out after asking an airport worker for directions to "Dong Chong."
She frowned. "It's Tung Chung. Hong Kong people won't understand you otherwise."
Same characters, completely different sounds. Cantonese operates on its own logic.
We filed the lesson away, climbed to the upper deck of the bus, and watched the city start to appear through the window.
- S1 巴士
- 地址:機場巴士站B出口
- 車程:約40分鐘
- 票價:HKD$5.8
Ngong Ping 360 & Tian Tan Buddha
昂坪 360:柳暗花明又一村的雲中修煉
將行李寄放在纜車站後,我們搭上了昂坪 360。
隨著纜車緩緩爬升,耳邊的喧囂逐漸被風聲取代。眼前是豁然開朗的山與海,真的有一種「柳暗花明又一村」的視覺釋放。隨著纜車緩緩上升,城市噪音逐漸消失,只剩風聲與金屬纜索的節奏。
Jack 拿著相機在水晶車廂裡忙碌著,腳下的強化玻璃透出大嶼山那片像湖水綠般的樹海,我們彷彿漂浮在城市與自然的邊界。
隨著纜車緩緩爬升,耳邊的喧囂逐漸被風聲取代。眼前是豁然開朗的山與海,真的有一種「柳暗花明又一村」的視覺釋放。隨著纜車緩緩上升,城市噪音逐漸消失,只剩風聲與金屬纜索的節奏。
Jack 拿著相機在水晶車廂裡忙碌著,腳下的強化玻璃透出大嶼山那片像湖水綠般的樹海,我們彷彿漂浮在城市與自然的邊界。
Bags stored at the cable car station, we boarded the Ngong Ping 360.
The city noise faded as we climbed, replaced by wind and the creak of the cabin. Lantau Island spread out below: green hills, open water, the kind of view that resets something.
Jack was busy with the camera. I looked straight down through the glass floor and tried to feel calm about it.
The city noise faded as we climbed, replaced by wind and the creak of the cabin. Lantau Island spread out below: green hills, open water, the kind of view that resets something.
Jack was busy with the camera. I looked straight down through the glass floor and tried to feel calm about it.
- 昂坪360
- 地址:香港大嶼山東涌達東路 11 號
- 交通:港鐵東涌站 B 出口,步行約 2 分鐘
- 建議停留:2.5–3 小時(含纜車、大佛、市集)
The Warm Tofu Pudding
溫豆腐花的修煉
抵達昂坪市集,迎接我們的是自在漫步的牛群,以及通往天壇大佛那條彷彿沒有盡頭的長階梯。當我們終於氣喘吁吁地爬到頂端時,平時缺乏運動的 Jack 喊著頭暈,彷彿是不再年輕的身體在抗議。
Ngong Ping village: wandering cattle, souvenir shops, and a long staircase up to the Big Buddha that looked shorter than it was. By the top, Jack was dizzy and questioning his life choices. The body knows.
下山前,我們點了一碗豆腐花,原本期待的是冰涼消暑,結果來的是「溫的」。在 30 幾度的濕熱高溫下,舀著那碗冒著微熱煙氣的豆花,滑入口中的瞬間,我們相視苦笑——這或許也是一種身心靈的修煉吧?以熱治熱,心靜自然涼。
Before heading down, we ordered tofu pudding to cool off. It arrived warm. In thirty-degree heat, we sat with our steaming bowls and looked at each other. Sometimes you just accept what you're given. We told ourselves it was character-building.
- 泳樺屋山水石磨豆腐花
- 地址:香港大嶼山
Chungking Mansions|The Real Kind of Survival
重慶大廈:真實的求生
離開大嶼山的空靈,我們搭著港鐵到達大家口中的香港模樣,充滿速度感的市中心。
直到走出尖沙咀站,抬頭看見那棟傳說中的巨獸——重慶大廈。
「這不是我說過不要訂這邊的住宿嗎?」看著眼前閃爍的霓虹燈牌與混雜的人流,我心裡默默冒出了這句話。
但 Jack 顯然對這種「王家衛式」的頹廢美學情有獨鍾,或者是又再次訂房失誤,訂到了傳說中的地雷區。
於是,我們的重慶大廈大冒險正式強迫上線且要住在這裡五天四夜(笑)。
直到走出尖沙咀站,抬頭看見那棟傳說中的巨獸——重慶大廈。
「這不是我說過不要訂這邊的住宿嗎?」看著眼前閃爍的霓虹燈牌與混雜的人流,我心裡默默冒出了這句話。
但 Jack 顯然對這種「王家衛式」的頹廢美學情有獨鍾,或者是又再次訂房失誤,訂到了傳說中的地雷區。
於是,我們的重慶大廈大冒險正式強迫上線且要住在這裡五天四夜(笑)。
Leaving Lantau's stillness behind, we took the MTR into what most people picture when they think of Hong Kong, the version with speed built into it.
We walked out of Tsim Sha Tsui Station and looked up. There it was, the legendary beast itself: Chungking Mansions. "Didn't I say we shouldn't book here?" I thought this quietly, watching the flickering neon signs and the crowd moving in every direction at once. Jack has always had a soft spot for this kind of Wong Kar-wai decadence. Or maybe it was just another booking mishap, landing us squarely in what people warn you about. Either way, our Chungking Mansions adventure was now mandatory, and we'd be here for all five nights of the trip. (No take-backs.)
We walked out of Tsim Sha Tsui Station and looked up. There it was, the legendary beast itself: Chungking Mansions. "Didn't I say we shouldn't book here?" I thought this quietly, watching the flickering neon signs and the crowd moving in every direction at once. Jack has always had a soft spot for this kind of Wong Kar-wai decadence. Or maybe it was just another booking mishap, landing us squarely in what people warn you about. Either way, our Chungking Mansions adventure was now mandatory, and we'd be here for all five nights of the trip. (No take-backs.)
Check in的過程
・Check-in像迷宮:在狹小的電梯間,我們被迫擠著將就上樓。整棟建築只有兩部小小的電梯,錯過一班不知道要等到何時。訂房資訊寫著到 14 樓 Check-in,才發現櫃檯是一位印度人。我們被告知要去 16 樓辦理入住,但最後房間卻是在 6 樓。我們像是在玩一場沒有地圖的 RPG 遊戲。
・電梯裡的聯合國:電梯門一關,空氣瞬間凝結。狹小的空間擠滿了來自世界各地的人,混合著濃烈的香料、汗水與陳舊的空調味。這裡據說住了 120 個國家的人,而在這一刻,只有我們兩個看起來是格格不入的亞洲臉孔。
・房間的壓迫感:一開始給的房間已經夠小,又硬是塞入一張雙人床,小到令人窒息,背包甚至無法打開。Jack 最後一秒追出去要求換房,才成功換到了兩張單人床,沒有到很大,但至少有床底可以放背包。雖然每道門上都有電子鎖,裡裡外外總共有兩道,讓人稍感安心,但那種強烈的「空間生存感」,比任何電影情節都來得真實且具壓迫。
・Check-in像迷宮:在狹小的電梯間,我們被迫擠著將就上樓。整棟建築只有兩部小小的電梯,錯過一班不知道要等到何時。訂房資訊寫著到 14 樓 Check-in,才發現櫃檯是一位印度人。我們被告知要去 16 樓辦理入住,但最後房間卻是在 6 樓。我們像是在玩一場沒有地圖的 RPG 遊戲。
・電梯裡的聯合國:電梯門一關,空氣瞬間凝結。狹小的空間擠滿了來自世界各地的人,混合著濃烈的香料、汗水與陳舊的空調味。這裡據說住了 120 個國家的人,而在這一刻,只有我們兩個看起來是格格不入的亞洲臉孔。
・房間的壓迫感:一開始給的房間已經夠小,又硬是塞入一張雙人床,小到令人窒息,背包甚至無法打開。Jack 最後一秒追出去要求換房,才成功換到了兩張單人床,沒有到很大,但至少有床底可以放背包。雖然每道門上都有電子鎖,裡裡外外總共有兩道,讓人稍感安心,但那種強烈的「空間生存感」,比任何電影情節都來得真實且具壓迫。
Check-in process
・Check-in felt like an RPG with no map: The building runs on two small lifts, both slow, both always crowded. Missing one means an unpredictable wait for the next. Our booking said check-in was on the 14th floor, where the desk turned out to be staffed by an Indian attendant. We were redirected to the 16th floor, and our actual room turned out to be on the 6th.
・The lift was its own world: The doors closed and the air went still, packed with people from a dozen different countries at once, a mix of strong spices, body heat, and air conditioning that had been running too long. The building is said to house residents from around 120 nations. In that moment, we were clearly the two who didn't quite belong.
・The first room they gave us was small enough that the backpack couldn't fully open: Jack ran after the staff at the last minute and managed to negotiate two single beds instead. Still not spacious, but at least there was room under the bed to stash the bags. Two electronic locks on the door, inside and out, offered a small sense of security. But the feeling of being inside that space, the sheer physical compression of it, was more real and more pressing than anything a movie could prepare you for.
・Check-in felt like an RPG with no map: The building runs on two small lifts, both slow, both always crowded. Missing one means an unpredictable wait for the next. Our booking said check-in was on the 14th floor, where the desk turned out to be staffed by an Indian attendant. We were redirected to the 16th floor, and our actual room turned out to be on the 6th.
・The lift was its own world: The doors closed and the air went still, packed with people from a dozen different countries at once, a mix of strong spices, body heat, and air conditioning that had been running too long. The building is said to house residents from around 120 nations. In that moment, we were clearly the two who didn't quite belong.
・The first room they gave us was small enough that the backpack couldn't fully open: Jack ran after the staff at the last minute and managed to negotiate two single beds instead. Still not spacious, but at least there was room under the bed to stash the bags. Two electronic locks on the door, inside and out, offered a small sense of security. But the feeling of being inside that space, the sheer physical compression of it, was more real and more pressing than anything a movie could prepare you for.
文化小觀察:如果說香港是一座濃縮世界的城市,那麼重慶大廈,就是這座城市最極端的縮影。自 1960 年代落成以來,它一直都是背包客、商人、移工與難民交會的地方,也因此被稱為「全球化最真實的一棟建築」。
Culture Lens: If Hong Kong is a city that encapsulates the world, then Chungking Mansions is the ultimate microcosm of that city. Since it was built in the 1960s, it has stood as a melting pot for backpackers, merchants, migrant workers, and refugees alike. It is with good reason that it has been called 'the truest architecture of globalization.
- 重慶大廈
- 地址:香港尖沙咀彌敦道 36–44 號
- 交通:港鐵尖沙咀站 E 出口,過馬路即達
- 換匯:大廈內堅成找換提供全港最優匯率,即便不住宿也值得專程來換錢
Temple Street Dinner|The Crispy Bottom of a Clay Pot
廟街晚餐:砂鍋裡的鍋巴
安頓好後,我們到了廟街覓食。原本期待的熱鬧夜市,卻發現許多店家鐵門深鎖,「該倒的都倒光了」是當時的感慨,空氣中瀰漫著一股蕭瑟。
Once we'd settled in, we headed out to Temple Street looking for food. The lively night market we'd pictured turned out to be quieter than expected, plenty of shutters already down for the night, and the place we knew it could be no longer there. There was a certain stillness in the air that didn't match the guidebooks.
文化小觀察:曾經被譽為香港最具代表性的夜市之一,如今不少店家已拉下鐵門,少了過去摩肩擦踵的人潮,多了一點時代更迭的味道。
Culture Lens: Once hailed as one of Hong Kong's most defining night markets, it now sees many of its shops shuttered. Bereft of the once-packed crowds, it carries a poignant flavor of an eroding era.
我們選了一家煲仔飯,Jack 點了一份皮皮蝦(賴尿蝦)。這是一道極度考驗耐心的料理,他在那邊剝了超級久,弄得滿手醬汁,結果剝開來發現——根本沒有什麼肉。而這晚的悲劇還沒結束。吃完飯後,走在路上不小心碰撞了相機,鏡頭上的濾鏡就這樣應聲碎裂。看著地上的玻璃碎片,我愣了三秒,心想:這或許是它幫忙擋了一劫吧?碎碎平安,是東方人的自我安慰方式。
We found a clay pot rice stall. Jack ordered mantis shrimp, which turned out to be a serious test of patience. He spent ages peeling it, hands covered in sauce, only to find there was barely any meat inside. The night wasn't done with us yet. Walking afterward, I accidentally knocked my camera against something, and the filter on the lens cracked clean off. I stood there for a few seconds looking at the glass on the ground, thinking maybe it had absorbed some bad luck on my behalf. Breaking something small for the sake of peace later is a superstition a lot of people from this part of the world still hold onto.
- 興記菜館
- 地址:香港油麻地廟街15號
最後,我們去吃了佳佳甜品(後來才發現台北就有三家分店),帶著甜湯的溫潤,最後還有兩瓶 7-11 的巧克力牛奶,拖著疲憊的身體回到了重慶大廈休息。
We ended the night at Kai Kai Dessert, which we later realized has three branches in Taipei, with a bowl of something warm and sweet. Picked up two bottles of chocolate milk from 7-Eleven on the way and dragged our tired legs back to Chungking Mansions to rest.
- 佳佳甜品
- 地址:香港佐敦白加士街113-115號號地舖
- 推薦:芝麻糊、寧波薑汁湯圓
Day 1 Highlights
Day 1 行程重點
・香港國際機場 → 東涌(S1 巴士)
・昂坪 360 纜車
・天壇大佛
・昂坪市集
・重慶大廈
・廟街夜市
・興記菜館
・佳佳甜品
・昂坪 360 纜車
・天壇大佛
・昂坪市集
・重慶大廈
・廟街夜市
・興記菜館
・佳佳甜品
・Hong Kong International Airport → Tung Chung (S1 Bus)
・Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car
・Tian Tan Buddha
・Ngong Ping Village
・Chungking Mansions
・Temple Street Night Market
・Hing Kee Restaurant
・Kai Kai Dessert
・Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car
・Tian Tan Buddha
・Ngong Ping Village
・Chungking Mansions
・Temple Street Night Market
・Hing Kee Restaurant
・Kai Kai Dessert
Reflection
Azuki旅行結語
香港的第一天,就像那碗溫豆花。不是我們預期的版本,但卻是最真實的版本。從大嶼山的寧靜到重慶大廈的混亂,只隔了一趟地鐵。有些東西碎掉了,但旅行才剛開始。
Day one in Hong Kong, much like that bowl of warm douhua. Not the version we had anticipated, yet the most authentic one. From the serenity of Lantau Island to the chaos of Chungking Mansions, the distance was merely a single MTR ride. Something shattered along the way, but the journey is just beginning.
延伸閱讀|Read More
旅行必看|Travel Essentials
行程攻略|HongKong Itinerary Hub
秘境觀察|Hidden Gems & Culture
旅途紀錄|Photo Diary