香港重慶大廈住宿實錄｜入住評價、安全嗎？入住五天四夜真實心得
Chungking Mansions, Hong Kong｜A Honest Review After 5 Days & 4 Nights
Azuki / 2023.07
傳說中的
重慶大廈
重慶大廈
提到重慶大廈，很多人的第一印象，大概都是《重慶森林》的電影畫面，或是網路上那些「龍蛇雜處、生人勿近」的都市傳說。
出發前，我還半開玩笑地跟 Jack 說：「訂哪裡都可以，就是不要訂重慶大廈。」
結果到了香港，我們拖著行李站在尖沙咀街頭，抬頭一看。「沒錯，就是重慶大廈」Jack 到底是不小心誤訂，還是為了省旅費，仍是個未知的謎。但既然房都訂了，我們還是在七月潮濕悶熱的夜晚，硬著頭皮走進這棟全香港最有名、也最具爭議性的建築。
這既不是一篇勸退文，也不是一篇推薦文。而是一篇真實入住五天四夜的體驗。
從 Check-in 的闖關流程、擁擠到令人窒息的電梯、房間到底有多小，希望都能給準備前往香港的人一個最真實的參考。
出發前，我還半開玩笑地跟 Jack 說：「訂哪裡都可以，就是不要訂重慶大廈。」
結果到了香港，我們拖著行李站在尖沙咀街頭，抬頭一看。「沒錯，就是重慶大廈」Jack 到底是不小心誤訂，還是為了省旅費，仍是個未知的謎。但既然房都訂了，我們還是在七月潮濕悶熱的夜晚，硬著頭皮走進這棟全香港最有名、也最具爭議性的建築。
這既不是一篇勸退文，也不是一篇推薦文。而是一篇真實入住五天四夜的體驗。
從 Check-in 的闖關流程、擁擠到令人窒息的電梯、房間到底有多小，希望都能給準備前往香港的人一個最真實的參考。
Most people's first image of Chungking Mansions comes from Wong Kar-wai's Chungking Express, or from the kind of travel warnings that describe it as chaotic, unsafe, and best avoided. Before we left, I told Jack, half-joking: "Book anywhere you want, just not Chungking Mansions." We arrived in Tsim Sha Tsui, dragged our bags down Nathan Road, and looked up. Whether Jack booked it by accident or on purpose to save money remains an open question. Either way, on a humid July night, we walked in.
This isn't a piece telling you not to stay here. It's also not a recommendation. It's an honest record of five days and four nights inside one of the most talked-about buildings in Hong Kong: what check-in actually involves, what the lift is like, and exactly how small the rooms are.
Check-in｜More Like an RPG Than a Hotel
入住像在闖關
走進重慶大廈，一樓完全不像一般飯店。
映入眼簾的是密密麻麻的外幣兌換店、SIM 卡攤位、印度服飾店、印度餐廳，以及各種拉客的店家。
如果第一次來，很容易懷疑：
「我真的走對地方了嗎？」
映入眼簾的是密密麻麻的外幣兌換店、SIM 卡攤位、印度服飾店、印度餐廳，以及各種拉客的店家。
如果第一次來，很容易懷疑：
「我真的走對地方了嗎？」
The ground floor of Chungking Mansions looks nothing like a hotel lobby. Money changers, SIM card stalls, South Asian clothing shops, Indian restaurants, and vendors calling out to passersby. If it's your first time, it's reasonable to stop and wonder if you've walked into the right building.
我們訂的是 Ashoka Hostel。
Booking 上寫著櫃檯在 14 樓。
於是我們拖著行李排了將近十分鐘的電梯。
結果到了 14 樓才知道，那裡只是接待點。
工作人員又請我們去 16 樓 辦理入住。
到了 16 樓，印度籍工作人員收了 100 港幣押金，交給我們房卡後，又補了一句：
「Your room is on the 6th floor.」
……
所以我們又重新加入排電梯的人龍。
在重慶大廈，Check-in 真的不像入住飯店，比較像一直在解 RPG 任務。
Booking 上寫著櫃檯在 14 樓。
於是我們拖著行李排了將近十分鐘的電梯。
結果到了 14 樓才知道，那裡只是接待點。
工作人員又請我們去 16 樓 辦理入住。
到了 16 樓，印度籍工作人員收了 100 港幣押金，交給我們房卡後，又補了一句：
「Your room is on the 6th floor.」
……
所以我們又重新加入排電梯的人龍。
在重慶大廈，Check-in 真的不像入住飯店，比較像一直在解 RPG 任務。
We had booked Ashoka Hostel through an online booking platform. The listing said reception was on the 14th floor. We queued for the lift for about ten minutes, made it to 14, and were redirected to 16. On the 16th floor, a staff member collected a HKD$100 deposit, handed over the room key, and added: "Your room is on the 6th floor." We rejoined the lift queue. Check-in at Chungking Mansions doesn't resemble a hotel process. It's closer to a series of tasks with no map provided.
Mini Guide｜入住前先知道
・Ashoka Hostel 辦理入住與房間樓層可能不同，不要看到地址就以為到了。
・建議把 Booking 訂房資訊先截圖，大廈內網路與訊號不一定穩定。
・電梯採單向運行，如果錯過樓層，通常只能繼續搭到底再折返。
・Ashoka Hostel 辦理入住與房間樓層可能不同，不要看到地址就以為到了。
・建議把 Booking 訂房資訊先截圖，大廈內網路與訊號不一定穩定。
・電梯採單向運行，如果錯過樓層，通常只能繼續搭到底再折返。
Mini Guide｜Before You Check In
・Reception and your actual room are likely on different floors. Don't assume arriving at the listed floor means you've arrived.
・Screenshot your booking confirmation before entering the building. Signal inside is unreliable.
・The lifts run in one direction. If you miss your floor, you'll need to go to the top and come back down.
・Reception and your actual room are likely on different floors. Don't assume arriving at the listed floor means you've arrived.
・Screenshot your booking confirmation before entering the building. Signal inside is unreliable.
・The lifts run in one direction. If you miss your floor, you'll need to go to the top and come back down.
Culture Lens｜The Lift
Cultural Lens：電梯裡的聯合國
如果說重慶大廈最有代表性的地方，我會投給它的電梯。
一棟大樓只有兩部客梯。
每次等待大約都要 5～10 分鐘。
真正進入電梯後，更像沙丁魚罐頭。
警衛還會一直說：
「Move inside.」
直到每一個空隙都塞滿人才關門。
短短幾十秒的電梯裡，我們聽到英文、廣東話、印度語、阿拉伯語，以及完全聽不懂的語言。
那一刻真的有種：
「全世界的人都在這裡。」
空氣裡混著線香味、咖哩香料味、老舊建築的潮濕味，以及一點點菸味。
說不上舒服，但也因此形成了重慶大廈最鮮明的記憶點。
一棟大樓只有兩部客梯。
每次等待大約都要 5～10 分鐘。
真正進入電梯後，更像沙丁魚罐頭。
警衛還會一直說：
「Move inside.」
直到每一個空隙都塞滿人才關門。
短短幾十秒的電梯裡，我們聽到英文、廣東話、印度語、阿拉伯語，以及完全聽不懂的語言。
那一刻真的有種：
「全世界的人都在這裡。」
空氣裡混著線香味、咖哩香料味、老舊建築的潮濕味，以及一點點菸味。
說不上舒服，但也因此形成了重慶大廈最鮮明的記憶點。
If there's one thing that defines the Chungking Mansions experience, it's the lift. Two passenger elevators for the entire building. Each wait runs five to ten minutes. Once inside, the security guard keeps saying "Move inside" until every available space is occupied and the doors can close. In those few dozen seconds, you'll hear English, Cantonese, Hindi, Arabic, and languages you won't recognise. The air is a mix of incense, curry spices, old building dampness, and faint cigarette smoke. Not comfortable, exactly. But impossible to forget.
Culture Lens｜為什麼重慶大廈這麼特別？
重慶大廈一直被視為全球化最鮮明的縮影之一。不少來自南亞、非洲、中東的商人、旅客與移工，都曾在這裡停留或經商，因此也有人稱它是「香港最國際化的大樓」。如果你對這段歷史有興趣，也很推薦閱讀人類學家 Gordon Mathews 的《世界中心的貧民窟：香港重慶大廈》，會對這棟建築有完全不同的理解。
重慶大廈一直被視為全球化最鮮明的縮影之一。不少來自南亞、非洲、中東的商人、旅客與移工，都曾在這裡停留或經商，因此也有人稱它是「香港最國際化的大樓」。如果你對這段歷史有興趣，也很推薦閱讀人類學家 Gordon Mathews 的《世界中心的貧民窟：香港重慶大廈》，會對這棟建築有完全不同的理解。
Culture Lens｜Why Chungking Mansions Is What It Is
Chungking Mansions is frequently described as one of the most vivid examples of globalisation compressed into a single building. Traders, travellers, and migrant workers from South Asia, Africa, and the Middle East have passed through or set up businesses here for decades, which is why some call it the most international building in Hong Kong. If you want to understand the place beyond the surface, anthropologist Gordon Mathews wrote Ghetto at the Center of the World: Chungking Mansions, Hong Kong, which gives the building an entirely different kind of context.
Chungking Mansions is frequently described as one of the most vivid examples of globalisation compressed into a single building. Traders, travellers, and migrant workers from South Asia, Africa, and the Middle East have passed through or set up businesses here for decades, which is why some call it the most international building in Hong Kong. If you want to understand the place beyond the surface, anthropologist Gordon Mathews wrote Ghetto at the Center of the World: Chungking Mansions, Hong Kong, which gives the building an entirely different kind of context.
Room Review｜Ashoka Hostel
Ashoka Hostel 房間開箱
我們入住的是 Ashoka Hostel。
五天四夜，兩人總共 NT$5,269，平均每人每晚約 NT$1,317。
第一眼只有一個感想：
真的很小。
原本訂的是雙人床。
Jack 看了一眼就放棄人生。
床幾乎只能睡一個半人。
最後跑去跟櫃檯協調，才成功換成兩張單人床。
即使換房後，房間依然非常侷促。
中間只剩一條約 20L背包寬 的走道。
如果帶的是大型行李箱，基本上沒有辦法完全攤開。
五天四夜，兩人總共 NT$5,269，平均每人每晚約 NT$1,317。
第一眼只有一個感想：
真的很小。
原本訂的是雙人床。
Jack 看了一眼就放棄人生。
床幾乎只能睡一個半人。
最後跑去跟櫃檯協調，才成功換成兩張單人床。
即使換房後，房間依然非常侷促。
中間只剩一條約 20L背包寬 的走道。
如果帶的是大型行李箱，基本上沒有辦法完全攤開。
We stayed at Ashoka Hostel. Five nights for two people came to TWD$5,269 in total, roughly TWD$1,317 per person per night. First impression: very small. We had booked a double bed. Jack looked at it once and immediately went back to the front desk. The bed could fit approximately one and a half people. After some negotiation, we were moved to a room with two single beds. That room was still extremely tight, with a walkway between the beds roughly the width of a 20-litre backpack. A large suitcase cannot be fully opened inside.
Room Facilities
房間設備
・有獨立衛浴
香港寸土寸金，在這裡展現得淋漓盡致。
蓮蓬頭直接裝在馬桶上方。洗澡的同時，馬桶也一起洗乾淨。
由於浴室沒有對外窗，整個空間一直都偏潮濕。
香港寸土寸金，在這裡展現得淋漓盡致。
蓮蓬頭直接裝在馬桶上方。洗澡的同時，馬桶也一起洗乾淨。
由於浴室沒有對外窗，整個空間一直都偏潮濕。
・En suite bathroom
Hong Kong's space constraints are at their most concentrated here. The shower head is mounted directly above the toilet. Both get cleaned at the same time. There is no window in the bathroom, so the humidity never fully clears.
Hong Kong's space constraints are at their most concentrated here. The shower head is mounted directly above the toilet. Both get cleaned at the same time. There is no window in the bathroom, so the humidity never fully clears.
・有冷氣，但非常吵
冷氣還行。但是運轉聲也很大。如果淺眠的人，建議準備耳塞。
冷氣還行。但是運轉聲也很大。如果淺眠的人，建議準備耳塞。
・Air conditioning, loud
It works. The noise it makes while working is significant. Light sleepers should bring earplugs.
It works. The noise it makes while working is significant. Light sleepers should bring earplugs.
・小窗戶，但幾乎沒有作用
房間有一扇小窗。不過窗戶面向建築內部，完全沒有通風效果。潮濕感一直都在。
房間有一扇小窗。不過窗戶面向建築內部，完全沒有通風效果。潮濕感一直都在。
・A small window that doesn't help much
There is a window. It faces the interior of the building, which means no ventilation and no natural light. The room stays damp throughout.
There is a window. It faces the interior of the building, which means no ventilation and no natural light. The room stays damp throughout.
・WiFi 普通
可以滑手機。但速度不算快。
可以滑手機。但速度不算快。
・WiFi, functional
Adequate for basic use. Not fast.
Adequate for basic use. Not fast.
項目 |
評分 |
|---|---|
清潔度 |
★★☆☆☆ |
隔音 |
★★★☆☆ |
床鋪舒適 |
★★☆☆☆ |
地理位置 |
★★★★★ |
CP 值 |
★★★★☆ |
Who Should Stay Here
適合誰住？
推薦・預算有限的背包客
・想體驗《重慶森林》氛圍的人
・對住宿要求不高、只需要睡覺的人
・想感受香港另一面的旅人
不推薦・第一次自由行的新手
・單獨旅行的女性（建議至少兩人同行）
・對衛生、氣味、隔音要求高的人
・需要大型行李箱的人
✅Recommended for
・Budget travellers who need a place to sleep and not much else
・Anyone curious about the Chungking Express version of Hong Kong and what's actually behind it
・Travellers with low requirements for comfort and a high tolerance for sensory input
・People who want to see a side of Hong Kong that the usual itineraries don't cover
・Budget travellers who need a place to sleep and not much else
・Anyone curious about the Chungking Express version of Hong Kong and what's actually behind it
・Travellers with low requirements for comfort and a high tolerance for sensory input
・People who want to see a side of Hong Kong that the usual itineraries don't cover
❌Not recommended for
・First-time solo travellers who aren't sure what to expect
・Women travelling alone (going with at least one other person is advisable)
・Anyone with high standards for cleanliness, smell, or noise levels
・Anyone travelling with a large suitcase
・First-time solo travellers who aren't sure what to expect
・Women travelling alone (going with at least one other person is advisable)
・Anyone with high standards for cleanliness, smell, or noise levels
・Anyone travelling with a large suitcase
Reflection
Azuki旅行結語
我還會再住一次嗎？大概不會。因為給人的舒適度不高且對女性旅行者不是太友善。但如果問我：「值不值得體驗一次？」我的答案是：可以。重慶大廈像是一個濃縮版的香港。擁擠、混亂、多元、快速，又帶著一點讓人不知所措。它不一定會成為旅途中最舒服的一晚，卻很可能成為你回國後，記得最久的一段故事。
Would I stay again? Probably not. The comfort level is low, and it's not a particularly easy environment for women travelling. But if the question is whether it's worth experiencing once, the answer is yes. Chungking Mansions is Hong Kong in concentrated form: crowded, chaotic, genuinely international, fast, and slightly disorienting in a way that's hard to describe until you're inside it. It may not be the most comfortable night of the trip. It's very likely to be the one you talk about longest after you get home.
延伸閱讀｜Read More
旅行必看｜Travel Essentials
行程攻略｜HongKong Itinerary Hub
秘境觀察｜Hidden Gems & Culture
旅途紀錄｜Photo Diary